Starbucks

Sitting under the shade of a tree in Plaza Allende. It is a beautiful day but warm under the intense sun. I’m taking a break after exploring in the Centro a bit.  The shade feels good. Every time I start walking around in a high-altitude city I am surprised how quickly I seem to run out of breath while walking or climbing. It takes a few days to get used to it and until then I’ll just have to take many breaks like this.

Blanca’s and Cavenaugh’s home is up on the hill so getting here was no problem. As Señor López, our driver, said yesterday, “downhill even a pumpkin can fly.” Getting back will be hard for this pumpkin won’t be able to fly.

I’m sitting across the street from Starbucks. I came here to make sure I know where it is because I’m supposed to meet someone there in about an hour.

I got a late start this morning after a scrumptious breakfast prepared by La Señora, as Blanca calls the beautiful woman who is in charge of the kitchen and the household. Eggs, fresh fruit, yogurt, oatmeal, fresh corn tortillas, orange juice and coffee. And La Señora’s specialty, her deep red salsa. Last time I was here she made a batch for me to take home with me when I left. This time she won’t do that because I’m not going back home right away, but she gave me her recipe and I look forward to making it when I get home.

I didn’t sleep well last night. I think perhaps Sandra’s stories last night about ghosts and spirits were still in my mind.

(Sandra lives not too far from where I am. On a block between Calle Quebrada and Calle Beneficia. Or, as she puts it, “between broke and a charity case.”)

I’ve poked around here and there. I accidentally walked into a large room at the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri where a priest was doing confessions, and then sat in the main church while another priest said Mass.


I’ve taken plenty of pictures. I’m finding it hard to ween myself from my iPhone camera and use my SLR instead. It is so easy to use and the quality is not bad. And I’m into instant gratification.

Here’s my favorite so far from this mornin:


Sitting next to me is a young couple. High school age. Don’t know if they’re boyfriend and girlfriend. Probably not. The guy appears to be gay.

I was struck by an exclamation that came out of his mouth in response to something she said: “¡Verga!” (slang for penis).

Young people these days!

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Lunch with The Writer

San Miguel de Allende | May 5, 2016

The trip from León to San Miguel didn’t take as long as I remember and we seemed to go through more towns than we did the last time. It’s not really a beautiful ride. You only hit the outskirts of Guanajuato so you don’t get to experience any of the beauty of its colonial center, and you pass through a handful of poor smaller communities. The area is very dry and there we could see the black evidence of recent forest (brush?) fires everywhere.

Señor López, our driver, was a font of information about the area and about Mexico in general. I learned anew how ignorant I am about this country’s history and its people. We were talking about ancestry and I mentioned that my father, who was born in San Luís Potosí, claimed to be a Chichimeca Indian but that I don’t know if there was any truth to that. Señor López quickly informed us that the overwhelming majority of Mexico’s indigenous people – Aztecas included – were Chichimeca. The only ones who aren’t are those in the southern part of the country, the Mayans near the Guatemalan border, the Zapotecs and Mixtecs near Oaxaca, and others. So my father was right, I guess.

He also had something to offer about the U.S. political picture, saying at one point that if Trump should win, he is ready. He’s got a pick and a shovel ready to go so he can head north to build Trump’s wall. “Then I have to figure out how to pay for it,” he said.

Blanca, our hostess, was waiting for us in the beautiful, lush patio of her home on a hillside above the city. Her husband, Cavanaugh, soon joined us. A late al fresco lunch was ready to be served, Blanca said, as soon as her other guests arrived.

The soon did. There was an expat from Houston who came here more than 10 years ago, fell in love with it and never went back to Texas. There was her companion who, among other things, conducts tours of various sites in San Miguel and the region for tourist and others. He knows a lot about the city and its history, and that seemed to delight the other guest, a writer named Sandra, who moved here three years ago after having lived in San Antonio for a number of years.

If you’re wondering whether Sandra The Writer is that Sandra, you’re right. I knew I would get to meet Cisneros during my visit because Blanca had talked about it. But I didn’t think it would be that soon. I was a bit nervous about the prospect about spending time in her presence because I’m always leery of being around famous people. They spend so much time being nice to ordinary people – because they have to; it’s their job – and my tendency is to think that they get very tired of having to be nice to strangers, of having to pretend they care about them when they’re probably never going to see them again.

So I didn’t know how I’d react to Sandra, and how she’d react to us. I needn’t have worried. The woman is delightful. She is full of energy and her words, both in Spanish and in English, exit her mouth with a spark and a tingle. In her animated style of speaking, she reminded me of mi Tía Pancha, one of my mother’s younger sister, whose eyes always sparkled when she spoke.

She lives in a magical world, surrounded by spirits, welcoming some and shunning others. She talked about how she “cleanses” her home after every visitor departs, to shoo away any nasty spirits they may have left behind. This aspect was a surprise for me but, thinking back on her last book, it probably shouldn’t because she talks about that some. Listening to her, I could easily place her in the magical realistic world of Gabriel García Márquez.

She is as curious about other people’s stories as she is eager to share her stories. And boy, does she have stories. I became a fan of hers the day I began to read “The House on Mango Street,” and my admiration for her increased with “Woman Hollering Creek” and her subsequent works. (I reviewed “Woman Hollering” for The Houston Post and I’m so glad now that I didn’t say anything negative about it!)

I’ve always known she’s a great story teller, but listening to her stories while sitting around drinking fresh lemonade and eating tortilla soup, with only a few friends around the table is far, far more rewarding than reading them in print or listening to her address a group from behind a lectern. The intimacy makes the difference.

I wish I could share some of those stories with you, but I can’t. First of all, she told too many of them and I can’t remember them that well; I can’t remember the details. Secondly, I could never do those stories justice. And, finally, they are her stories to share, not mine.

It was a wonderful, long and leisurely lunch and I was sorry that it had to end. I kind of think she did too, that if she hadn’t had to go home to pack for her trip tomorrow, she would have gladly stayed here all afternoon.

This trip into Mexico is still in its infancy. I have a long way to go, but I really doubt that anything I do or see over the next eight days will top today’s experience.

The guests have been gone for a while. I retreated to my room for a much-needed nap and I’m now back in the patio, writing this. I am surrounded by the sound of leaves rustling in the winds, and doves cooing. A while ago I heard some beautiful bells marking the hour, and a while before that I heard the faint distant tinny sounds of a military brass band somewhere in the city. A Cinco de Mayo observance? Maybe. That holiday is not as big deal here as it is in the United States. Whatever it was, it was nice.

Now my hosts and the others are back and the conversation has started. Soon we will eat. Tandoori chicken, I understand. And that is how this first day in this beautiful country will end.

 

 

 

 

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Into Mexico

Flying into León. From there it will be about an hour’s ride (or 90 minutes, I forget which) by car to San Miguel de Allende.
Unlike San Miguel, León is flat country. It sits in the middle of a wide, wide valley. It reminds me very much of California’s Santa Clara Valley in that it is an agricultural region. Very smoggy. But it’s also a manufacturing hub, home to several auto companies. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car you’re driving was made here. Or parts of it were.
In SMA I’ll be staying at the home of friends, former Houston residents who now live in Colorado but spend as much time as they can in this beautiful city. (I was going to say colorful but I’ve decided to try to avoid using that word given that everything is colorful in this country).
I don’t know what I’ll do in San Miguel other than visit with my hosts and do whatever things they may have planned. But I will also roam around by myself, poking here and there in the hope of finding interesting things to take pictures of.
Tomorrow I will have coffee with a woman I’ve never met. She’s a pen-pal of my Swiss friend. She used to live in New Mexico but moved here not long ago. She sounds like an interesting person. She’s a former Peace Corps volunteer in Africa and is a quilter She blogs. About quilting, about her travels and other things.
On Monday I will go to Queretaro for a day and a half and from there I’ll take a bus to Mexico City for a four-day visit. I’ve never been to Queretaro (a weekend in a suburban hotel back in the 80s when I went there to cover a conference doesn’t really count). It’s a colonial city and has the usual number of attractions offered by this country’s colonial cities.
I haven’t been to Mexico City in many years. I think the last time I was there was also in the 80s, when I flew down from DC to interview the US ambassador to Mexico. I can’t remember his name now. A former actor. Friend of Reagan. He was a gracious interviewee but he complained about my report to my editors. Didn’t like how what he told me sounded like in print. He couldn’t claim that I made it up, though, because I had it all on tape.
I didn’t spend too many days in Mexico City on that trip but in 1984, I spent about a month there, covering a UN World Population Conference and then doing reporting for a special section on Mexico that The Houston Post decided to publish. It was something like 15 pages and every word (except for the headlines) was written by me.
My first trip to Mexico City was around 1980, Christmas time. I went down with a friend from graduate school and did all the touristy things, including the pyramids and the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. I still have a picture of Rick, who is Jewish, joining the other pilgrims as they moved towards the church on their knees.
I am eager to see Mexico City again and to see how much it’s changed since I last saw it. I’ve read and heard of all the new museums and galleries, and I can’t wait to see them.
Flying into León and driving to SMA or Guanajuato always remind me of the Josè Alfredo Jiménez tune, “Camino de Guanajuato,” one of his most beautiful songs despite its gloomy opening lines (No vale nada la vida. La vida no vale nada. Comienza siempre llorando y así llorando se acaba.).
We are about to land. More later.

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The absence of sanity

I HAD BRUNCH with an old friend today. He now lives in New York State, north of the city, but he comes down to Texas every now and then for work, and to visit with family and friends.

I first met Michael shortly after I started writing a column for The Houston Post. He didn’t like something I had written and wrote to tell me about it. (That was before the advent of email) He told me later that he didn’t expect me to respond, but that if I did, I would probably respond negatively. I surprised him instead by thanking him for writing and inviting him out for a meal or coffee to talk about the issue that had provoked his reaction.

We did meet and we had a great conversation and we continued to stay in touch, even after I’d moved to Washington and he’d married and moved first to Georgia and then to New York. When I was in New York two summers ago, we went to an Astros-Yankees game together at Yankee Stadium, and I visited with him and his wife the last time they were in Houston.

Michael is still a conservative and I’m still a liberal but we’ve learned to get along quite nicely, not by avoiding the issues on which we don’t agree, but by talking about them in a calm, dispassionate manner. It’s a good and valuable friendship.

ON THIS TRIP, Michael had a present for me: a copy of The Houston Post from January 17, 1991 (a few months after I had started writing my column). The headline on the front page is “War! Massive air raids slam Iraq targets.”

I knew immediately that in this issue was printed what I consider to be one of the best columns I wrote for The Post. (I didn’t get many compliments about it after it was published so I know my assessment of its worthiness wasn’t widely shared, but I still believe it was one of my best, particularly considering the circumstances surrounding its publication.)

When news of the U.S. attack on Iraq broke out late in the afternoon of January 16, I had already written my column for the next day and turned it in to my editors. But when I learned about the assault, I just knew that I couldn’t go with that original column. I don’t remember what it was about, but it had nothing to do with the latest developments, and. I knew I had to write about the new war.

And so I went to my editor and asked to have the column back, promising that I would have a new column in a short while. He agreed, reluctantly, and I sat down to write. Within 35 minutes I had finished, and it took me another 10 minutes to edit it, and I was done. I turned it in and, with only minor changes, it made it in the next day’s paper, under the headline, “Where has all the sanity gone?”

This is what it said:

SO NOW WE are at war. As I write this, it is too early to tell how this semi-declared war is going.

Are the good guys winning?

We’ve been told we should never doubt that.

Are some of our soldiers dying?

Are some of them already lying in pain and anguish in the desert or on some military hospital ship off the coast of Saudi Arabia?

Are innocent Iraqi men, women and children dying by the hundred as our planes and missiles deliver their lethal payloads?

We’ve been told to expect as much.

Are Iraqi missiles and planes loaded with poison gas or biological bombs making their way through the darkness to Jerusalem or Tel Aviv?

We’ve been warned that too is a possibility.

How long will it be before the flag-draped coffins start arriving at American air bases, from there to be transported to cities and towns across the country for military burials?

Not long, I’m sure.

How many? Who knows.

How many grieving widows, mothers and fathers, children, siblings and other loved ones will gather around those caskets to bid them farewell.

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, if some of the more dire predictions prove true.

How many times will we hear the expression, “he died for his country” uttered by pastors and other eulogists, and how many times will the grieving survivors be comforted by that?

YES, THIS IS war.

This is what we as a country, thorough our elected representatives, decided we wanted, even if we set aside our national charter, the Constitution, in doing so.

We, the people, gave one man, George Bush, the power and the authority to kill and maim people – as many as it takes – to bring another man, Saddam Hussein, to his knees.

And we gave George Bush the power and authority to subject our uniformed men and women to the same fates of death and destruction.

It doesn’t sound nice, but that is what war is: human beings resorting to killing and maiming each other because they failed – or refused – to use their reasoning faculties.

“War begins,” the headline on the first wire service story reads.

A more accurate headline would have been, “Sanity ends,” for war is surely not just an absence of peace, as we’ve been told – war is an absence of sanity.

There is little comfort to those who must suffer the consequences that one side was saner than the other, that one side was right and the other was wrong, that one leader was a madman while the other was a statesman.

There is no comfort in war.

“The liberation of Kuwait has begun,” were the first words from the White House.

No doubt there will be successful conclusion to this liberation, but what about the liberation of mankind from the horrors of war? When is that going to begin?

When is the United Nations going to set a deadline for our liberation from insanity?

IT IS A strange experience, being a witness to this tragic turn of historical events. I have never experienced this before, since Vietnam pretty much sneaked up on us.

I am scared, and I am angry.

As I look across the newsroom, the faces of my colleagues are somber, and even the feeble attempts at humor seem laced with dread.

This is all new to us, and some of us haven’t quite figured out how to react, as I’m certain most of you haven’t.

Yet it’s news and we must do our jobs by covering it. The adrenalin will flow and the pulses will quicken as we rush to meet this first deadline for bringing you the first installment of the news of this latest failure of mankind.

We’ll do the job, as you will do yours. But you and I will go home at night to our warm beds and our loved ones.

In the Middle East, even at this dawning hour of the war, there are some people – Americans, Iraqis and others – who will never go home.

Welcome to our war.

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The day I came to understand what people meant when they talked about Ronald and Nancy Reagan’s “great love affair”

IN THE SPRING of 1980, not long after I had been named The Houston Post’s political writer, I got a call from the Ronald Reagan campaign. The former governor was going to make a swing through Houston and would be amenable to sit down with me for a few minutes if I wanted to interview him.

Reagan was seeking the Republican Party’s nomination to take on President Jimmy Carter. The interview would have to be at the lounge of a private aviation firm at Hobby Airport. Reagan was to fly in to Hobby and then get on a motorcade to Almeda Mall, south of Houston, where he was to do a walkthrough.

I was told that Reagan would have a few minutes for the interview before getting in his limo to head to the mall but when I got to the airport, I learned that Reagan’s flight was a bit late and that the interview might be a bit shorter than planned. Then I was told that there would be no time for a sit-down interview but that I was welcome to join the candidate and his wife in the limo and I could interview him during the short trip.

More than 35 years later, I do not remember a single question I asked Reagan, nor do I remember any of his responses. What a I do remember was that when we got to the mall’s parking lot and we exited the limo, I became part of the Reagan entourage as we were escorted into the mall where throngs of crazed fans were waiting to greet him and the future first lady.

OVER MY MANY years as a reporter, I had learned that the best way to cover an event is not to be part of that event, but rather to be apart from it, to get a better perspective. And so, as soon as we entered the mall, I tried to make my way away from the Reagans and their Secret Service guards and aides. I wanted to follow them closely, but at a distance, to be able to get a better view and sense of the crowd.

However, the enthusiastic crowd was too thick; it was like a wall that prevented me from escaping, and so I was forced make my way through the mall close to the candidate, his wife, a few campaign staffers, Secret Service agents and local police officers. Most of the time I was walking close to Mrs. Reagan.

It was pure bedlam as wave after wave of adoring Reagan fans rushed in to try to shake his hand, or to touch him or – failing that – settling for touching Mrs. Reagan. Some seemed content to touch the campaign aides, or even me.

Despite the large number of people, we slowly made our way through the mall. As we did, I took turns observing Ronald Reagan, his wife and the Secret Service agents. The look on the candidate’s face was shear joy. The agents’ faces showed pure business. On Mrs. Reagan’s face, I saw a smile that matched her husband’s but her eyes were apprehensive, matching those of the agents.

“We love you, Ronnie,” “Attaboy,” and “Give ‘em hell, Ronnie” were heard over and over again.

Mrs. Reagan, too, got some comments.

“Stand by him,” one woman yelled.

“I will, always,” she replied as she walked patiently alongside the candidate.

SOON AFTER WE started walking, I heard one of the local police officers say something to a Secret Service agent about “a local crazy” and point to a woman in the crowd, a few yards ahead. The agent nodded and turned to talk to another agent. Soon I saw another agent whisper into Mrs. Reagan’s ear as he too pointed toward the woman. Mrs. Reagan looked at the woman and nodded.

The woman was white and appeared to be in her 60s. She had a wide grin on her face but there was nothing unusual about her as far as I could tell. But for some reason, she was evidently on a list of potential threats to politicians such as Reagan.

What followed was an intriguing game of defense designed to keep the woman from getting anywhere near Mr. Reagan. Each time the woman came near the entourage, the police and Secret Service officers would form a solid wall between her and Reagan, much like a football defense team keeps opposing players from getting near their quarterback. The woman would fall back into the crowd but she would quickly circle around and eventually end up back in our path, only to be met by the same solid wall of officers.

Several times she protested, “I used to know him when he was 5 years old,” to anyone who would listen. Few would.

THIS HAPPENED AT least three times and on each attempt she was successfully repelled. Until, on about the fourth attempt, just when it appeared as if she had given up and gone away, there she was again. She had managed to sneak in close without being noticed by the officers, and the only person between her and Reagan was Nancy Reagan. As the woman lunged towards the candidates with an outstretched arm, one of the agents yelled, “Watch out, there she goes.”

Without a moment’s hesitation, Mrs. Reagan, who had been walking slightly ahead of her husband, moved quickly to block her. The woman’s hand had made it to within inches of Mrs. Reagan’s shoulder before the agents grabbed her and hustled her away.

“That’s enough for today,” he told her. She protested that all she wanted to do was to shake his hand.

Apparently, that was all she did want because there was no knife or gun in her hand. Had she been carrying a knife or other weapon, however, I am certain that Nancy Reagan would surely have been injured, if not killed.

That was the last I saw of that woman. Eventually, we made it through the mall and to the waiting motorcade to take us back to the airport. Nobody mentioned the incident with “the crazy” woman.

I told my editor about, though, and offered to write about it but he declined. He didn’t think it was important. I went ahead and wrote it up anyway and put it in my files. Less than a year later, on the day of Reagan’s attempted assassination outside a Washington DC hotel, I mentioned the story again, and this time it was printed the Sunday after the shooting, under the headline, “Secret Service’s best-kept secret is Nancy Reagan.”

I WAS NEVER a fan of either of the Reagans, but I came away from that incident convinced that there was nothing fake about the legendary “love affair” that was the Reagans’ marriage. I don’t know if Ronald Reagan would have stepped in front of a potential killer to save his wife’s life, but I know Mrs. Reagan would have – and did – on that one spring day in Texas in 1980.

 

 

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Finding what we’re looking for

I WENT TO the Houston Public Library today. It was a beautiful (if windy) day so I decided I’d ride my bike there. I figured I could always use the exercise and I wouldn’t have to worry about parking.

I wish I could say it was a thoroughly pleasant experience, but it was not.

To start with, the guy at the front desk who issued me my library card wasn’t particularly friendly. He tended to bark and mumble and I had to ask him to repeat himself several times, which didn’t please him.

The woman behind the reference desk on the third floor was about as welcoming as the guy at the front desk and she grumbled about the number of microfilm rolls I needed.

When I finally got the rolls of microfilm, I couldn’t figure out how to use the viewing machine and there was no staff around to ask for help.

Eventually I did get help, from a young man who was using machine nearby.

Once I got my viewer going, it didn’t take long for me to realize that I was looking for a needle in a haystack and that if I were to find the article I was looking for, it would take a lot longer than the few hours during which the library was open today.

So I did what I do best: I quit.

BEFORE LEAVING THE building, I decided to visit the men’s room. While standing at the urinal, I heard some truly horrific sounds coming from one of the stalls that made me want to get the hell out of there as quickly as I could. I went to the sink and washed my hands more thoroughly than I normally do. Had there been a shower there, I would have probably taken my clothes off and cleansed me entire body.

Then I turned to the paper towel dispenser to find that it had no towels. I dried my hands on my pants and left that room. Rather than leave the building, I decided to do my civic duty and inform the staff about the lack of towels. I finally found a worker and told her, “There are no paper towels in the men’s room.”

She looked at me coldly and said, “Yes, we know.”

“You know? That’s it? You know?”

“Yes,” she said smugly. “We know, and that’s why we have blow driers.”

I spun around and walked to the stairs. When I got the second floor I realized I didn’t have my backpack with me, so I hurried back up to the third floor and was greatly relieved to see my backpack on the floor, where I had left it. My camera and extra lens were still in there.

SO FINALLY, FINALLY, I make my way outside and head towards where I had locked my bike on one of the bike racks.

But I couldn’t find my bike. In the slot where I had locked by bright green bike was instead a dark gray bike. Having had five or six bikes stolen over the last couple of decades, I am by now very familiar with that stunned feeling, that realization that my bike is gone and I’ll never see it again.

I was about to start walking home when it hit me: I no longer have a green bike; it was stolen a couple of years ago. And I replaced it with a dark gray bike, exactly like the one that was locked to that rack!

THE JOY OF finding my never-lost bike was tempered with the awful realization that this is probably what my like is going to be like from now on. Forgetting backpacks. Forgetting what my belongings look like. Forgetting.

I probably would have sat down on the curb and started crying. But I didn’t. Instead I unlocked the bike, put on my helmet, turned on the various blinking lights and got on that dark gray bike to make my way home, fighting the strong headwinds all the way.

And the reason I didn’t give up was that less than an hour earlier, as I was still going through some of those microfilm rolls, I felt a tap on my shoulder. I turned around to see the smiling face of that young man who had helped me earlier. He had his backpack on and was obviously on his way out.

“I hope you find what you’re looking for,” he said, and then he walked away.

He could have simply left, and gone to wherever he needed to go, but instead he took a few seconds to tell me, “I hope you find what you’re looking for.”

ME TOO. I hope he finds what he’s looking for. I hope we all find what we’re looking for. Even if we never lost it in the first place.

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These are my babies, he said.

IT WAS A beautiful day yesterday and I opted for a bike ride instead of a visit to the gym. And instead of following my usual route along the Buffalo Bayou trail, I headed east, towards the Mexican part of town.

I ended up in the Second Ward, on Altic Street, where I came upon a cemetery, several acres of greenery in a neighborhood of modest homes. What intrigued me about this cemetery was the row of industrial buildings next to it; I thought that the juxtaposition of the cemetery against the warehouses might make for good photos.

So, finding the gate open, I rode my bike in and pedaled towards the back, careful to stay on the hard grassy area near the gravel lanes because I wanted to avoid riding over a jagged stone and getting a flat tire.

The reason I headed to the back portion of the cemetery was that in the back was where the color was. The front of the cemetery consisted of older plots with the kind of tombstones or headstones you’ll find in an average Anglo cemetery in this country. Staid, somber and colorless.

I learned later that Evergreen was established in 1894 for Anglo families but that in recent decades, it has become a predominantly Mexican cemetery, not surprising given that the area is mostly Mexican.

Before I entered the gate, I had seen a burly Mexican guy riding a bike along one of the roads on the perimeter of the cemetery. His head shaved, he had tattoos on his hands and forearms, he had a small goatee and a thin moustache, and he was wearing shades and a black hoodie.

As I got off my bike and proceeded to take my camera from my backpack, I worried a bit about the guy. I could no longer see him but I wondered what he was doing there, and in the back of my mind, I could hear the faint warning: don’t be stupid, that guy could be a thug and if he were to assault you here, there’d be nobody around to stop him – get your ass out of here.

But I suppressed that nasty voice; I wanted the photos, and so I stayed and started looking around for possible good shots. I quickly realized that the warehouses in the back didn’t really work as an interesting backdrop, but I found a couple of very intriguing gravesites and I spent some time shooting those.

SATISFIED, I GOT back on my bike and headed back towards the gate. Just as I exited the gate, however, I heard someone calling me. It was the guy on the bike.

Could I take his picture?

I hesitated for half a second before saying yes. Then he said, not here, but back there, in the back, with my babies, and he pointed to the far end of the cemetery then started riding in that direction, expecting me to follow him.

Yikes! Trepidation started setting in. What if he wanted me back there, where nobody could see, to beat me up, take my wallet, by camera and my bike? Who would come to my rescue?

But I had already said yes. To say no now, after first agreeing, would be cowardly, and ­– if the guy had no bad intentions – completely disrespectful.

So I followed. He was way ahead of me so I paid less attention to the jagged stones on the gravel road, and finally joined him at the edge of the cemetery, the area on the outskirts of the cemeteries that in traditional Mexican camposantos is reserved for angelitos – babies who die at birth or soon after, or are stillborn. The theory is that these young souls become angels and act as guardians to the rest of the bodies lying in that cemetery.

I got off my bike and followed him to one of the numerous tiny gravesites. I still had a bit of fear in my heart, but that was quickly dissipating.

The plot had a small grayish wooden cross, kept together with screws and wire. On one side of the horizontal beam was scrawled the name María de los Ángeles and on the other, María de Jesús.

There was also a small Styrofoam Christmas tree on the plot as well as several plaster statues – of Jesus, a couple of angels and something that looked like a frog. There were plastic Easter eggs, and the entire thing was framed by a green wreath made from plastic mesh.

These are my babies, he said.Servando-2-20160211

Your daughters?

No, no. My nieces. They passed away right after they were born. I try to visit them often, but I live far.
His name was Servando, and he explained that when he saw me taking pictures, he thought it might be a good idea to get a picture of himself with the gravesite of his babies.

I started to take out my camera.

No, no, he said as he reached into the pocket of his hoodie. With my phone.

He handed me his battered smart phone and knelt next to the cross on the gravesite to pose for the picture.

If I use his phone, I thought, I will leave here with no picture of him. After all this, I had to have a photo of this guy in this place. So I started to try to convince me to let me also shoot him with my IPhone, explaining that I could get a much better photo that I would be glad to share with him if he’d just give me his email address.

He finally agreed and I took the picture of him, posing proudly and lovingly with his left hand resting on the top of the wooden cross.

When we finished, I handed him my business card and asked him to send me an email so that I could send him a copy of the photo.

He said he would and, just as I was ready to get on my bike, he asked if I could take just one more picture.

Way on that side, he said, pointing to the opposite corner.

I agreed and got on my bike to follow him. Halfway there I realized that what I feared the most had indeed happened: my rear tire was flat. I got off and walked the rest of the way.

When we got to the other gravesite, of someone named Carillo, he explained that his uncle was buried there. I took the photo with his phone and this time I didn’t bother to use mine and, as we prepared to leave, he said, Adios Tío. Next time I’ll bring flowers.

Again, I said good-bye to him and encouraged him to send me his email address. I explained about my bike and asked if by any chance there was a bus stop around.

It turns out I was very close – about three blocks – from a station on the East Side rail line and I was able to get home without much difficulty.

ORDINARILY, I WOULD have been upset about my busted tire, but on this day, a flat tire seemed to be a small price to pay for such an adventure, and for the opportunity of getting to meet a man whose love for two nieces he’d barely gotten to know and for an uncle who was long gone was so great that he was willing to ride a bike a long distance to go pay them a visit – and who desperately wanted a visual recording of that visit.

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Shiny red fruit

IT’S ABOUT THIS time each year that I am heartened to hear a different kind of bird call in the trees outside my home office window.

Most of the year I listen to the arrogant, even prideful calls of the mockingbirds, but every year, sometime in February, I begin to hear the high-pitched trilling and tweeting of the cedar waxwings who have come from who-knows-where to feast on the berries in the trees outside my window.

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Cedar waxwing during a visit last February

 

Don’t get me wrong. I love mockingbirds and their calls. They are so distinct. I remember the times I used to walk around in Washington ­– where I found very little avian variety – and every once in a while being pleasantly surprised by a different bird call, and I would know in an instant that if I looked hard enough, I would find a beautiful mockingbird in a nearby tree.

(I just glanced outside the window to find a mockingbird on a nearby branch, daring any other bird to challenge his gods-given right to the tree.)

I DO LOVE mockingbirds, but I also love variety, and that is why I am so ready for the first tweeet-tzzzeeet of the cedar waxwings.

They’ll only be here for a few days, until they strip the tree of its shiny red fruit. They chatter among themselves, no doubt commenting on the quality of this year’s vintage. And then, just as suddenly, they are gone. Where they go, I don’t know, but I presume it’s up north – al norte – in search of more beautiful berries.

Up North. That’s what we used to say when we were kids, to describe what we did each summer.

We’re going Up North, we’d say.

We’ve been Up North.

AND THAT WAS all we really needed to say. In a town that was some 90 percent Mexican – and 90 percent of those Mexicans went to Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan and other northern states in search of work – everybody understood what we meant.

Everybody understood that, like the birds, we had to go Up North. The shiny fruit beckoned.

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Damn It, Black Lives Matter

THE BEYONCE VIDEO and Super Bowl appearance has brought the “Black Lives Matter” concept back into the headlines. And sadly, most Americans still don’t get it. They don’t get what it’s all about.

I’m embarrassed to admit that even though I have been, from the start, in total support of the Black Lives Matter movement, it was not until recently that I was able to fully understand it and to be able to explain it – to myself, at least.

What made it difficult for me was that, like most Americans, I viewed “Black lives matter” as a declarative statement. When you see it as such, it is easy to understand why the typical response of Bernie Sanders and others was, “Well, all lives matter.”

That’s a natural response for any human being who doesn’t understand that Black Lives Matter is not a declaration, it is a response – a response to an actual declaration.

And that declaration is that black lives really don’t matter.

While you will be hard pressed to find anybody to declare openly that black lives do not matter, the message that many African Americans get on a daily basis is that their lives really don’t matter. This is particularly true for poorer African Americans living in our nation’s most neglected areas.

That message is delivered with every cop’s unjustified whack of a nightstick on a black skull or shoulder.

That message is delivered with every uncalled-for paralyzing shock of a Taser.

That message is delivered with every needless handcuff around young black wrists.

And that message is delivered with every avoidable shedding of too much blood leading to yet another senseless death, and another black family’s having to deal with the loss – the terrifying and heartbreaking loss – of a loved one.

Every single unjustified violent end of a black person at the hands of law enforcement personnel repeats and amplifies that message: black lives do not matter.

And it is in answer to that message that we get the natural reaction: Black Lives Matter!

It is in that context that it begins to make sense.

Sometimes I think that a lot of the misunderstanding over this simple reaction would have been avoided if whoever coined the phrase would have added a simple, “Damn it” in front of “Black Lives Matter!”

When you say, “Damn it, black lives matter,” it becomes pretty obvious that you are reacting to something and not simply stating the obvious.

When you say, “Damn it, black lives matter,” you are making it clear that you are reacting to a very bad situation and you want society to understand why such systematic violence against black lives hurts so much, and why it has to end.

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A dying woman, a stern grandmother, a blessed child – and a miracle? A true story about life’s possibilities

 

[When I decided to use the image of the Santo Niño de Nuestra Señora de Atocha on the front of this year’s Christmas cards, I felt a need to explain why that image was important to me. I started out to write two or three sentences that would be included in the cards but once I started writing, I realized that there was no simple or short way to fully explain the significance of the image, so I ended up with the paragraphs below, which have a few more details than what is on the cards. A note for those of you receiving my Christmas card: the date below, July 9, 1939, is the correct date.]


IN THE HOT
South Texas mid-summer days of 1939, eleven years after she was married, two years after the death of her second child and less than a year after having given birth to her sixth, my mother lay in her bed in the small house that her father-in-law had built for her and Domingo.

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Santo Niño de Nuestra Señora de Atochao.

 

Martina López Palomo, who was 31, was in pain most of the time and her constant moans could be heard by anyone in or near the house. María Luisa, their oldest child, had just turned ten, yet even now – three quarters of a century later – she harbors searing memories of my mother’s agonizing cries.

The doctor had told my mother that her ovaries were infected and that she needed to have surgery to remove them. Without that surgery, she would die. That was his verdict. But for whatever reason, my mother resisted, and so her suffering continued.

More than likely, money played a role in her decision. Or rather, lack of it. This was at the tail end of the Great Depression and times were hard. Although my father had worked for the railroad, when he stopped working because of his hand injury, his income stopped. And so it was up to my grandparents and Tía Benita, my father’s oldest sister who lived at the other end of the block with her husband, Melecio Alfaro, to provide food for the family. Tío Mele was a businessman and so his family was relatively well off, compared to ours and compared to the other families in the neighborhood, and Tía Benita made certain that her brother’s family did not go hungry.

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Martina López and Domingo Palomo on their wedding day, May 1928

 

But while there was enough family support to keep the family from starving, there was none for huge medical expenses, so my mother continued to suffer.

And her cries intensified.

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Manuela Limón and Alejandro Palomo, on their 50th anniversary, November 1941.

 

There was little my father could do, for he was not around. He was 120 miles away, in a San Antonio hospital, recovering from a hand injury he had incurred while working for the railroad. Before he was taken to San Antonio – aboard a railroad handcar – he too had lain in bed for days, in agony, taking nothing but aspirin for his intense pain.

Until he was taken away, Luisa could hear him too. Crying, like a child.

My grandmother, Manuela Limón Palomo, would come in during the day to help take care of my mother, as would Tía Benita. There were times when my mother’s stepmother, María López, and others would come to help. But that was during the day. At night, it was up to Luisa to look after my mother and eight-month-old Mariana, and the other children, eight-year-old Delfina, five-year-old Alejandro and three-year-old Norberto.

My grandfather had fashioned a small hammock out of rope and canvas for Mariana.

“I would lie on the floor at night, near the hammock, and with my foot I would gently push it to rock it back and forth so that Mariana would fall asleep,” Luisa remembers. “But I couldn’t sleep: I kept hearing my mother’s lloridos.”

‘Buelita Manuela was a stern, no-nonsense kind of person.

Era de leyes,” is how Luisa describes her – she was stickler for rules, her rules.

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María Luisa and Manuel

 

Among those rules was that it was up to Luisa to keep Mariana in clean diapers. That meant soaking the diapers in a washtub filled with boiling water. Luisa not only had to stoke the fire to keep it burning, she had to stir the washtub’s contents with a stick and then use that stick and to remove the soaking diapers. The fact that afternoon temperatures surpassed 100 degrees didn’t matter; the diapers had to be washed.

When Tía Benita would come upon Luisa doing that chore, she would become angry at ‘Buelita and insist that she, Benita, could wash the diapers. But the next day, before Tía could come over, the old woman had already made Luisa wash the diapers.

Era mala reata,” Luisa says about ‘Buelita. (I don’t know if there’s a translation for that. A cruel piece of old rope?)

From her bed, my mother could see what her mother-in-law, whom she called mamá, would put Luisa and the others through, but there was nothing she could do about it.

“If I die,” she told Luisa one day. “Mamá is going to eat the four of you alive.”

Manuelabook3On July 9, ‘Buelita, who lived next door, came to Luisa. In her wrinkled brown hands, she carried a small worn booklet. It is unclear how long she had owned it, but this we do know: She had carried that booklet, printed in Guanajuato in 1847, with her when the family had walked to Texas 19 years earlier from near San Luis Potosí. The booklet was a triduo (triduum), a three-day litany of prayers to the Santo Niño de Nuestra Señora de Atocha. (We know that date because Luisa wrote it, in pencil, on the front of the book.)

“Here,” she told Luisa. “Take this booklet. Use it to pray for your mother, so that she can live.”

Luisa did as her grandmother beseeched. She wanted my mother to live, and so she prayed. Every day. Religiously, asking the Santo Niño to return my mother to health.

And little by little, that’s what happened; my mother did begin to get better, and stronger, until one day she was able to leave her bed and once again resume her duties as wife and mother.

My mother was to live for more than 52 years after her illness, and she was to give birth to three additional children, including me, the youngest.

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Luisa, a few years later

When it became clear that my mother would live, Luisa made a promise to the Santo Niño that she would one day visit His shrine in Mexico. Many decades later, Luisa fulfilled her vow by making that pilgrimage to the shrine, which is near Fresnillo, Zacatecas, to offer her thanks.

WAS MY MOTHER’S recovery a miracle of the Santo Niño de Nuestra Señora de Atocha? Or was the doctor simply wrong in his initial prognosis? Or was my mother’s fear about what would happened to her four young children should she die enough to give her the strength to defeat whatever was wrong with her?

I don’t know. Over the years, I have learned to steer clear of certainty when it comes to matters of the soul, or of the universe and beyond. But I have also come to the conclusion that while nothing is certain, everything is possible. And so I’ll leave it at that.

During my most recent visit to her home in California, Luisa chose to make me be the keeper of this precious and delicate booklet. It is in dreadful shape, but I consider it and its tattered yellowed pages among my most-prized possessions.

At the front of the booklet appears the image shown on this card. There are many versions of this image, but I have searched extensively online and I have yet to find a version that matches this one exactly. After I made a copy of the image, I started to Photoshop it to remove the blemishes and other signs of wear and abuse, but I quickly decided that those signs were part of the essence of its beauty, and so they remain.

IN THIS SEASON of peace, promise, joy and new beginnings, I have elected to share this image – and this story – with you, in the hopes that they instill in you and your loved ones a deeper sense of family, love and devotion – and the possibility of a better, more peaceful, generous and miraculous world.

 

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